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Which beading wire should I use?

December 8, 2009

wk48riverA frequent question new beaders ask is “what is the best beading wire to use?”  I’ll admit, it can be confusing…there is wire, beading wire, seed bead thread (Nymo type), and different weights or thicknesses of all!  Here are a few tips to make sure you are using the best wire for your project!

1. Start with the right type of wire.

If you are stringing beads for a bracelet or necklace, you’ll want to use one of the multi-strand, nylon coated brands such as SoftFlex, AccuFlex, or Beadalon.  These are most commonly referred to as “beading wire”.   These wires are flexible and strong, and even under the toughest conditions, I’ve found they hold up well!

Seed bead projects will use something more like a thread or even like fishing line.  Look for brands like Nymo (thread), Supplemax or Fireline (monofilament).  Flexible and thin, they can be re-threaded through beads multiple times for complex seed bead projects.

Wire wrapping is the one type of project where you will choose actual uncoated wire.  Use fine gauge wire (24g or smaller) to attach beads to a wire frame or clasp.

2.  Select the right gauge and number of strands in your wire.

wk48coral

I’ll focus on stringers in this post…it can be confusing, especially if you are new at making jewelry!  As far as gauge goes, the best rule of thumb is to use the thickest beading wire that will fit through your beads.  Remember that at the end of your bracelet or necklace, you’ll want to run the wire back through one or two beads…so don’t make it too tight of a fit!

Another good general rule is to evaluate the weight and size of the beads you are using, and determine what size wire will work best.  Heavy beads, like the river rock and silver in the first bracelet pictured, need a stronger base.  I used .019 Accuflex for the tan bracelet pictured.

Lighter or smaller beads can use a smaller gauge wire – .014 beading wire was used for the pink necklace comprised of 4mm coral and glass beads.

When it comes to the number of strands in the beading wire, the more strands, the more flexible the wire.  So…49-strand (7 twists of 7 wires!) will be more flexible than 21-strand.  You will usually want more flexibility in a bracelet than a necklace, but 49-strand is a good pick for most projects if you are trying to limit the number of spools of beading wire you have on hand.

Brag, Brag, Brag!

December 2, 2009

wk45bragallIt’s been a few years since I began making “mother’s bracelets” using engraved beads from Generation Gems.  I love their products, and their customer service simply cannot be beat!

My most popular design is a women’s bracelet, using hematite, Swarovski pearls and assorted Bali silver beads.  Neutral and understated, most of the folks who look at the sample I have of my own mother’s bracelet have a harder time pronouncing my daughter’s name than deciding on what style to order!

But lately, I’ve noticed a trend…can you believe guys like to brag too?!  Why yes!  I have more and more men who are interested in (and order!) my chainmaille version of the mother’s bracelet.

So I’ve started calling these Brag Bracelets, after a friend ordered one for her husband and used the term.  Recently, a client named Brad ordered his own version (pictured), using beads with the names of his children and his wife in a strong Byzantine weave.  I can’t wait to deliver it to him this week.

After all, Real Men like to brag about their family too. :-)

Great gift for jewelry makers…or anyone!

November 28, 2009

Throughout the year, I take photos of my work.  It not only helps me to remember what I did, but if I sell something, I can use the photos for “show and tell”!

Plus, it’s kind of silly, but I actually find it inspires me to look back and see all the cool things I’ve done in the past…I’ve looked at some of my pieces and thought “Hey, I really liked that!  I should make something similar again.”

Last year I made myself a calendar using the software that came with my HP printer.  I hung it up in my studio where I could be inspired all year long.  This year, however, I’m thinking about going a little higher tech and ordering a calendar through Shutterfly.  I’ve gotten posters and my daughter has created scrapbooks using her own photos,  and I’ve been amazed at the quality of the finished product!

Shutterfly poster

Here’s a sample of the posters I ordered.  You do need to have pretty high quality photos to end up with a decent product, but the software will tell you if the photo you’ve chosen won’t work for a specific layout.  (I’ve found that changing the style or size of the photo layout may allow me to use a photo that was giving an error message in another layout.)

A great gift idea for a jewelry maker would be to hijack their computer for a day, create a calendar for them using photos of their work, and then watch their eyes light up when they see the calendar.  Whether you use Shutterfly or software you already have on your computer, it’s really thoughtful to give something so personal.

Have fun!

What Makes Up Handmade?

November 20, 2009

As I finished up a batch of my Holly Jolly earrings this morning, I thought “geez, if people really knew what goes into these things…” and had a brainflash. What if I took a photo of all the materials and tools used to make them? I started gathering…..

wk44hollytoolsWow…for a cute and seemingly simple little pair of earrings, it’s amazing what it takes to make them! After I took the photo, I realized that I forgot a couple of things – a round nosed pliers, a punch pliers, 22g wire, and I didn’t include my tumbler.

Starting with the copper sheet (top right corner) I punch out the discs, then stamp them using letter stamps (middle).  After stamping, holes are punched for the ear wire and dangle, then I carefully file the edges to remove any messy little bits.   A Sharpie marker is used on the stamping to accent it, then I use one of the little white polishing squares to clean off the excess Sharpie.

The discs are then domed, using the dapping tools (top center).  I make all of my own head pins and ear wires, so at some point, I use my butane torch and 22g wire to make the headpins that hang the crystals.  After the dangles are complete, I use 20g wire to make the ear wires, hammering them just lightly.

Last step is to toss the earrings into the tumbler for a last polish and remove any excess burrs.

Here is the finished product (this is a prototype…I don’t put 3 dangles on the bottom any more, Holly gets a red crystal, and Jolly gets a single green one.

hollyjolly1I’d love to hear what goes into YOUR handmade products…and the next time someone stops to look at your work, or asks about it, be sure to tell them about all the details that go into making handmade!

Best Pliers for Wire Wrappers!

November 13, 2009

Euro Tool 6-step pliers

I love working with wire…the challenge to take something so ordinary as a simple piece of wire and turn it into something spectacular is so much fun!

I prefer using my pliers to a WigJig type tool, and had long ago graduated from using round-nosed pliers to make my loops to using stepped pliers.  My favorite pliers had three steps, and were terrific for making consistent loops, bends and curves!

About 6 months ago, I wanted to “step up” my stepped pliers, and ordered a pair that had SIX different sized jaws.  I instantly fell in love…I could go from teeny tiny loops to large loops just by flipping around a single pliers!

These guys are perfect for making ear wires, just use one of the two smaller sized jaws for the loop to hang your components from, and then the larger sized jaws for the shepherd’s hook that goes through your piercing.

I have to say that I love these pliers so much that I decided to become a distributor for a tool company (Euro Tool) that sells them.  I recommend these pliers to students in my Continuing Education classes, fellow jewelry makers, and jewelry forum friends.

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