Clasp Bracelet 101
Creating beautiful bracelets is easy! There are many ways to "design" and to string, but I will teach you one method here. Feel free to experiment and find the method that works best for you.
Level: Beginner
Materials:
Beads and spacers (approximately 30 6mm beads — this number will vary depending on the size of your beads. You can reference Beads per Inch Measurement if you are using another size bead. )
Beading wire
Crimp beads (2)
Clasp
Round nose pliers
Chain nose pliers
Crimping pliers (optional)
Flush cutter or nail clipper
Step 1. Measure your wrist using a tape measure or piece of string you can lay down against a ruler. Add one inch to your wrist measurement to determine the finished length of your bracelet. (This may go up or down slightly, depending on the diameter of your beads, I'll address that in a minute.) "Average" bracelet size is 7 1/4", which may go up or down a wee bit depending on your beads and the pattern you establish.
Step 2. Cut a piece of beading wire (Beadalon, Accuflex, Softflex) that is 3" longer than your bracelet size. This will allow you to easily pull the ends back into the crimp beads and fasten. Attach a binder clip (the black clips used to hold paper together) to one end, leaving at least 1 1/2" tail.
Step 3. Arrange your beads on a bead board, a bead mat, or a towel or placemat. The idea is to keep your beads from rolling around on the table. Placing your beads in the pattern you want for your finished bracelet will allow you to simply pick up the beads and string them in order. Measure out the line of beads — you should have approximately 6 3/4 - 7" of beads arranged for an average length bracelet. Adjust the number beads if you have a smaller or larger wrist.
Step 4. String beads on beading wire. The binder clip will keep the beads from falling off the other end of the wire.
Step 5. To check the length of your bracelet, lay your clasp out (if a toggle, separate the bar and ring and lay them end-to-end). Lay the beaded wire out as if it were attached to the clasp, and use your thumbnail to mark where the end of the clasp would come on the wire. Take this entire length and wrap around your wrist. If the two ends meet or overlap slightly, you have the right length. Add or remove beads if necessary.
If you do need to add or remove beads and have a pattern, you can easily work with either end of the bracelet by carefully removing the binder clip. Be sure not to pull the beading wire too far though — you don't want to lose what you have on the wire already!
Step 6. When the length is right, you are ready to attach your clasp. If you are using a clasp that uses a jump ring (lobster, spring), attach the bracelet to the clasp first. If you are using a toggle clasp, attach to the ring component of the clasp first. String a crimp on the bracelet and then bring the beading wire through the clasp. String the wire back through the crimp (you have now gone through the crimp twice) and through 1-2 beads if possible. (You might want to use your chain nose pliers to help grab and pull the wire through the beads.) The loop around the clasp should be loose enough that it allows the clasp to move freely, but not so loose that it's going to catch on something. I use my round nosed pliers to get the right distance by putting one jaw between the crimp and clasp and then pulling gently on the tail of the wire.
Step 7. Crimp the crimp bead using a crimping pliers or chain nose pliers. Using the chain nose or crimp pliers, smash the crimp gently but firmly. (If you are using a crimp pliers, use the larger section first, then turn the crimp bead 1/4 turn and re-crimp using the smaller section.) Tug on the loose end of the wire gently to ensure it's tight. Crimps will occasionally, be "bad" and have to be re-crimped or replaced if they don't hold. Trim excess beading wire very close to the last bead it came through using a flush cutter or nail clipper.
Step 8. Attach the bar end of the toggle clasp or the connecting jump ring to the other end of the clasp, using the same process as Steps 6-7. Be sure there is very little slack in the beads, but enough to allow the bracelet to drape on your wrist. With larger beads, you will need to have a little play in the spacing between beads to allow them to fit comfortably, but not too much. The trick is to not have beading wire visible when you are wearing the bracelet.
NOTE: Before crimping, test the length of your bracelet one more time...after it's been crimped and trimmed you will have to restring and re-crimp if it doesn't fit right!
Step 9. After crimping and testing the crimp, trim off any excess beading wire. Your bracelet is ready to wear!
I've had a number of students who have asked about making necklaces and anklets. Essentially, a necklace or an anklet is just a long bracelet! If you have mastered the skills to make a bracelet, you can make just about anything for yourself and your family.
