Simple Wire Ring
These wire rings are deceptively simple to make, and your embellishments on the design you create after making the ring shank will make them your own! As always, practice with copper first — it's softer and more forgiving — and then move to sterling or gold-filled.
Level: Beginner to Intermediate
Materials
16g dead soft round wire
Pliers
File
Ring Mandrel
Ring Sizer (optional)
My ring mandrel doesn't have sizes etched on it (it's a hand-me-down from my dad...don't get me wrong on "hand-me-down", it's probably one of the best ring mandrels I've ever seen!!!), so the first thing I do when making a ring is to figure out the size using a ring sizer, and then mark (using tape, Sharpie or making a light scratch with a file) on the mandrel where my ring should be centered.
Next I cut a 6" length of wire. Straighten and clean the wire using a polishing cloth. Work harden wire slightly with a rubber or nylon mallet if you'd like. File the ends so they are completely flush and don't have sharp edges.
For the ring shank, center the wire on the mandrel at the size mark. Bring the ends of the wire around the mandrel until they meet. Twist the ends around each other at the point that they meet, so that you have a closed ring. The ends should stay flat to the mandrel, not sticking up in the air or pulling down toward the back of the ring.
To finish your ring, get creative with the end wires. I like to continue to work on the mandrel so that my ring stays nice and round. The size may fluctuate, continue to keep the ring at the point of the right size on the mandrel while you are working it.
To make a large swirl (as shown), pull the two wires around each other, forming a domed spiral. When you have a large enough spiral or are almost out of wire, use pliers to wrap the excess wire around the ring shank. Nylon jawed wires will work best, but you can use regular pliers if you are gentle and don't gouge your wire.
Trim the excess wire and file ends so that they are smooth and don't cut into your finger.
I like to tumble my rings after they are finished to harden and add shine — you can also lightly hammer the shank on the mandrel to harden the wire.
